Frankenjura

The Frankenjure (German: 'Frankenjura' also 'Fränkische Schweiz') might be one of the world's most famous sport climbing areas. This is where back in the days guys like Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffat and many others developed the idea of modern free climbing: Kurt Albert started leaving red dots at the base of 'freed' climbs - and created the 'Red Point'. Wolfgang Güllich climbed the first UIAA 11 ever (Action Directe, 9a or 5.14d). And so on.The northern Frankenjura is seated in the triangle between the three cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nürnberg. Unlike other areas, the Fränkische Schweiz is not a system of crags but merely a collection of hundreds of small rocks spread over the woods. There are supposed to be over 1000 crags with over 7000 routes and countless boulders.The rock is finest limestone, known for perfect face climbing and incredibly roofs with mean finger pockets. If you wanna climb multi pitch... go somewhere different. In Franken if you're not exhausted by the 30m given, then try something harder! There are some longer routes, but most climbing takes place in crags ranging from 15-25m (50-80ft). Some of the roof routes tend to be wider the high...