How we get on Mount Blanc from Aiguille du Midi, over Mont Blanc de Tacul and Mont Maudit. End of summer 2015.
We had to wait two nights in base camp under the Cosmique, because avalanches were falling down from Mont Blanc de Tacul.
Third night we started at 2:00 AM, following guides with clients and hoped they will push the route through. Nobody went over Mont Maudit 8 days before, because heavy snow.
We stucked in jam under the Col du Maudit, because some climbers had no experiences and needed to use fix rope. Fortunately the sun was rising in this time. Than we climbed next to them with our Ice Axes and without fix rope.
From this place, it was really easy but fucking long. I don´t like long things:) We reached summit about 14:00 and met there our second group, which started Gouter route. We wanted cry, wanted smile. B
And descent... it was terrible like every descent from summit.
On Col du Maudit was terrible wind, we had to climb down and abseil. We conected our rope with group from Sweden, because 50 meteres wasn´t enough. So we helped them, they helped us. And than I cannot remember. I was totally exhausted and happy if we finished about 18:00 in our camp